When it comes to recognisable designs in the watch world, Panerai’s Luminor range is towards the top, although that does not mean it’s universally loved. As a brand they’ve always had a hardcore following of aficionados as well as an equally loyal set of detractors. Personally, I felt somewhere in the middle; neither feverishly following them, nor hating on them with a passion, until I saw the Panerai Luminor PAM 328. Something about the complete design aesthetic felt cohesive and complete – the clean dial, fully integrated bracelet, and in-house P.9000 movement. I decided to take the plunge into the Paneristi world.
The surprising thing about getting a Panerai is the number of compliments and comments you get from others. It’s a loud, ‘notice me’ piece and wearers need to have a certain confidence when wearing it. For this reason I keep it in rotation, but it’s certainly not something I strap on daily. Furthermore, when wrapped on the surprisingly comfortable steel bracelet it’s even more of a behemoth. At 44mm in diameter and sitting 18mm off the wrist it’s hard not to notice, but as a wearer it’s really the weight which stands out. It’s by far the heaviest watch I own and takes some getting used to.
That being said, it’s the bracelet which really makes this piece unusual. After delving into the weird and wonderful world of Panerai it doesn’t take long to realise that straps (making and collecting) are a key feature of the Paneristi community. Sporting a Panerai on a metal bracelet is a little like turning up to a formal event in a cravat; it can look great when done well, but most people just don’t do it. Wearing the Panerai Luminor PAM 328 in it’s original metal form puts you in the Panerai crowd, but equally keeps you apart from it.
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