Up for review is my vintage, 1967 Rolex Submariner 5512 with idiosyncratic, so-called “neat” dial. The pleasant name stuck based on the refined typography and high standard of execution, particularly in comparison to the early 5512 matte dial models.

As a demanding watch owner, I selected a vintage Submariner primarily for its aesthetics and functionality. My watch needs to handle an active and unexpectedly very wet (often submerged) dad-life to young kids along with everything else life can throw at you. And, unapologetically, I want it to add a sense of gravitas in the board room.

At a glance the tech specs may seem quaint compared with more modern examples. Objectively, each seemingly subpar component is actually surprisingly robust and offers unique aesthetic characteristics. A well-maintained vintage Rolex will meet most, if not all, peoples’ technical needs. Even after 60 years my 5512 is still water resistant and keeps exceptional time.

The material choices of vintage Rolex are delightful and add what I consider a “soft” aesthetic. Things like the domed Hesalite crystal and aluminum insert, while made to exceedingly high standards, develop a forgiving patina with age and wear.

Powered by a caliber 1560, this is a chronometer movement tested by COSC. The 15-series calibers are exceptionally well-made workhorse movements that have demonstrated their capacity in the last half-century of real-world use.

Rolex Submariners, including this 5512, are simple tool watches that have defined a generation of timepieces. The mid-century Swiss modern dial composition is elegant, legible, and timeless. Vintage Rolex are often slimmer than their modern counterparts. They wear comfortably and hug the wrist. At 40mm, the Rolex Submariner 5512 has wrist presence, but with eased edges, comes off graceful.

To my own taste I pair this with a folded-link jubilee bracelet. The intricacy complements the bezel and dresses up the watch.