Owner Review: Laine Guilloche – The Swiss Chameleon

When tilted to light, the green moire guilloche dial of my first independent watch acquires a beautiful bluish hue, much like a chameleon or perhaps like its Finnish maker, Torsti Laine, a former computer engineer, who altered the hue of his own life after attending the Finnish School of Watchmaking and moving his family to Le Locle, Switzerland, to start a watch brand under his own name. The dynamism of the dial is intoxicating, and having worn it on my wrist every day for more than a month, I am still tempted to bend the light reflected in its serpentine patterns.

The crispness of the guilloche cuts are a joy to admire under a loupe and are evidently executed by a competent artisan who works alongside Mr. Laine, willing to customize the dial to whatever guilloche pattern the client prefers. The dial color is achieved through PVD coating and can also be customized.

The backside of the watch is nearly as impressive as its face, especially considering that most watches in this price range fall far short in achieving the degree of hand finishing displayed in the movement. The snailing on the ratchet and crown wheels as well as the black polishing of the steel bridges are especially impressive. There are, however, imperfections visible under a loupe, such as stray tool and machining marks, that are entirely forgivable for a watch that costs four figures.

The guilloche model features Laine’s newer case with its scalloped sides, giving it an organic molten metal appearance, reminiscent of H. Moser’s Endeavor models. The case, at 40.5mm, is versatile enough to make the watch appropriate for both casual or formal attire.

After trudging through the jungle of vintage watches, my focus now is entirely turned to independent watchmakers, who offer an endless array of customizations, allowing the client to become the chameleon.

 

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