I feel Breitling get a bad rep, not as bad as Tag heuer but that’s the impression I get and don’t understand why. In spite of this I’ve long admired their watches, especially the Navitimer from afar, ultimately being too big and inaccessible. But a couple of years ago Breitling changed that. In a stroke of genius, they took the iconic navitimer aesthetic and bridged that gap for the slim wristed folk among us that cannot make a 42/44mm watch work. Enter, the Breitling Navitimer Automatic 38.

They market the Breitling Navitimer Automatic 38 as a unisex (read Asian market) watch though, which could become their undoing. Let me explain. This watch wears smaller than 38mm (the beaded bezel measures 38mm, the case 36.5mm underneath) with a 44mm lug to lug and a svelte 10.1mm depth. So you are compromised from the off as the watch weighs only 112 grams -which is a let down if I am honest- and thus the rotor noise is noticeable, very noticeable. Had Breitling not tried so hard to squeeze this into a unisex, dress watch guise (plenty of small wristed folk, me included wear 39/40mm watches) and not cut corners on the case sizing, the essence of what a Navitimer is -bold and functional in nature- may not have been hampered.

This leads me to that distinctive, fluid bracelet which is let down by the pressed fold over clasp. It could be so much better and should be for the money you are paying for this watch. Contrary to popular belief though, the clasp does have micro adjustment, albeit very fiddly and not ‘on the fly’ adjustable. My advice, buy it on one of their truly lovely leather straps.

On to the positives; The Breitling Navitimer Automatic 38 is such a comfortable watch to wear, partly due to that bracelet design and of course the small case. The beaded bezel brought back to life from earlier models is a head turner -a firm nod to the unisex market it is aiming for- offering good purchase to operate the robust slide rule. Dial work is beautiful and easy to read with exceptional print work, and the delicate applied indices encased in a double AR coated sapphire crystal dance under any light condition due to their highly polished faceted surfaces. The date window is almost unnoticeable due to its unobtrusive placement and white on black gothic style font. All this solidifies the dress watch appeal that the navitimer is clearly vying for. Lume is limited to the hands though but the red tipped seconds hand with its elegant tail logo seals it for me, and glides very smoothly due to the reworked sellita movement. This movement choice may make some people wince but it is much better than equivalent ETA’s, is easily serviceable and allows the fancy word ‘Chronometer’ to adorn the classic, slightly sunburst dial.

The mirror polishing and finish in general on the case and bracelet is exceptional and I feel Breitling still lead the way in this area. Not a hint of brushed stainless steel on this watch! The box and packaging are equally well executed and shun much higher end brands attempts (grand Seiko!!)

In conclusion, does it carry the essence, charm and historical significance of the navitimer into a more widely demographic friendlier form? Yes, just about. Well done Breitling for making the navitimer more accessible.
Can I work and understand the slide rule though? No. Will I ever? No.