Owner Review: Tudor North Flag – the indie Tudor tool choice

I got this as an everyday day casual watch, which was a brief that had been exclusively filled by divers for me previously. This was before I got into owning a number of watches that those not in the watchfam would consider ridiculous. I had been wearing an Omega Planet Ocean, large, orange, my most extravagant purchase and my biggest watch mistake. After buying it I realised it was far from my style but it had held enough value to trade in for the North Flag and get a few quid back. The North Flag was very much more in keeping with what I was looking for. This is a solid, tough, no nonsense watch that is subtle enough to not look out of place anywhere other than formal occasions. It is not wacky but it is different to many watches out there with a utilitarian vibe.

The case is one solid block of steel which is finely brushed all over and the lugs integrate into an equally solid and well executed bracelet. It is angular, with no curves or chamfers but there is nothing sharp. The dial is matte black and as legible as they come with big, white lumed markers. The date at 3 and power reserve indicator at 9 give symmetrical balance and the cut out gauge for the power reserve is a nice detail resulting in a more interesting face than first glance might appreciate. The power reserve is also actually very useful. Not because I’ll be trekking to the North Pole with it and it would be critical to know if my watch may be about to stop when I need to know the time to survive, but when rotating watches it’s nice to know how long you have before you can just pick it up and go or have to wind and reset. The brushed bezel with a ceramic insert underneath creates some more interest to the design that prevents it looking like an homage to any forgone tool watches- it can have a minor annoyance factor as dust can get trapped underneath. I believe there is a heritage inspiration from the Ranger II and whilst the case shape may be similar to some 70s sports watches this feels like a solid piece of modern design and engineering to me, not a reissue. Whilst it is not excessively sized at 40mm I feel it wears slightly larger than that as the bezel is thin, integrated lugs extend the length and it is carrying a bit of weight. All in all the proportions are fairly ideal though for a tough, take anything modern watch; but if you want a watch for doing sports in maybe a little lighter would be better.

Then there is the appeal of what I thought this watch might represent, and maybe still will. Released in 2015 this was Tudor’s rebirth and their first watch with an inhouse movement. A chronometer certified with 70 hour power reserve that feels as solid as the rest of the watch. It captures what I thought Tudor was all about, a heritage brand that is forward looking in its design and very much ready to step out of the shadows of its more well known parent company, which they seem to be doing. Could this be a sought after future classic? I’m not sure it is looking like that 5 years on with the Black Bay range seemingly far more popular but maybe in time it will be viewed as a watch that represents something special in Tudor’s history. If not, who cares, it is seriously good quality for the money, won’t draw attention from those who don’t know watches (a good thing in my book) and looks a little more interesting than all the subs and their homages. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it.

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