I’m not going to build any suspense, craft a review revealing flaws or strengths then tell you why you should love it or hate it anyway – the Serica 4512 Commando is an awesome watch, in every way. Maybe the style or size isn’t quite your thing but if you don’t like this watch then I don’t think you really like watches.

It is the 2nd iteration of the first watch by French microbrand Serica. The 1st one was called WWW (Wrist Watch Waterproof) inspired by military naming as the watch itself was inspired by “Dirty Dozen” military field watches (case is very similar to the Cyma). That one had one dial layout with a railroad minute track but you could choose black or white, broad arrow or alpha hour hand. The 2nd iteration, now with a classic big brand style numeric nomenclature, is upgraded with sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, an STP movement with slightly longer power reserve than the prior ETA (debatable whether this is an upgrade) and what appears from pictures (I have never held the mark 1) to be far crisper dial printing. Now it only comes black but your choices are 3 dial layouts: the original named WMB, the Commando I have here or a slightly funkier California. Your hour hand is only a broad arrow (which you were always going to pick anyway) but you can stick the crown on the left which is nice if you’re left handed or just fancy moving the crown away from your left hand.

I went for the Serica 4512 Commando, even if the name makes me cringe a little, but it was a tough choice between all 3. The Commando looks the most modern to me and more of a divergence from the old military watches. Opening up the minute track, dropping the lume plots at each hour but replacing them with longer batons at the cardinal points to give an almost sector dial look. It gives a really clean crisp look and the black lacquered dial is properly deep, devoid from any hint of greyness. The printing is equally sharp and for me where the real upgrade appears to be over the 1st watch. It has kept the 24 hour sub markers which are dainty and well inset from the minute markers. I like the California dial but like these concentric markers more, which just tipped me to going “Commando”. Some might not like that in the dark you only get 4 points lit up but this is enough to tell the time and unless you really are using it for military purposes (you’re not) is not a problem at all. The brand name is barely there, just a tiny print by 6 where you would normally find the other half of “swiss made”. The crown is also unsigned. It is an interesting approach Serica are taking to branding and they have done the same on their more premium dive offering. Creating a brand without emblazoning your name or logo, just by creating a stylish product that looks like the sort of thing you do. It is understated and elegant and I really like it.

The case  of the Serica 4512 Commando is classically sized, just under 38mm wide and just over 11mm deep, including the boxed crystal, with 20mm lug width and lug to lug length of 46mm. It wears beautifully and in my opinion does what Serica say they were attempting, a watch that looks good however large or small your wrist. The wide brushed bezel and fairly wide lugs give reasonable presence for a watch under 38mm and the modest case width and length mean few would feel it is swamping them.

The case is also very nicely finished at this price point. It is lightweight but that doesn’t make it feel cheap. Mostly brushed for a tool watch look but with a polished bevel on the bezel which dresses it up just enough to work in formal settings. The profile shows a stepped case working up from midcase, bezel and the small boxed glass. There is a little curve down in the lugs and a flat case back so it sits on the wrist perfectly. No big dome here to hark back to vintage bubbles of hesalite; like everything else about the Serica 4512 Commando, just a perfectly in proportion step above the steel for some more interest and character. The edges of the lugs and midcase are sharp with no bevel for a no nonsense look. I like the look but this may contribute to a rare criticism of the watch, it appears to pick up scratches and dings quite easily. I assume it isn’t using softer 316L steel than my other watches so maybe it is something about how it is finished or the sharp edges that show up every little bump. Or maybe it’s just that I wear it more than my others and look at it more closely due to it looking so good.

The strap is a stainless steel bonklip. Basically a very thin set of rings and centre links that fold back on themselves and clip in place so that it is as near as needs be infinitely adjustable without tools, equivalent to a metal perlon. Before receiving the watch I wasn’t sold on the strap. I thought it looked too thin and that the links of 19mm and 17mm being narrower than the lugs just made it look a little feeble. Seeing it in the steel though and wearing it are a different matter. It is the most comfortable steel strap I have ever worn, adjustable to the perfect size as your wrist changes through the day, very light and very elegant. I wouldn’t put it on a chunky diver but on this watch or something smaller with 20mm lugs it is perfect. Well, it is awkward to get over my hand when taking off and on (careful what size you order if your hands are disproportionately fat compared to your wrists) but once it’s on it’s perfect. It looks fantastic on any other strap you put it on too.

Finally the movement. We are swiss made here, as is the watch, with a hand wound STP1-11. I am assuming this is based very closely on an ETA but it has 45 hours of reserve and on my watch works beautifully. The crown screws very cleanly (yes, screws, on a hand wound, more on that) has a nice pop when it disengages and feels very smooth to wind. You can feel a bit more weight in the wind as the power reserve charges up but according to Sercia this is a modified auto so you cannot over wind, which is reassuring. Time keeping is generally very good. It was well within chronometer specs when I got it but had a strange period of a week or two running nearly 30 seconds a day fast. Thought it must have got magnetised but has now settled back down to normal under 10 secs a day, which is fine. Never experienced this erratic timekeeping in any other watches though so it is a little odd. Now, do you want to unscrew a crown on a watch you have to wind every day? Well, for me probably not but it is nice that you can get it very wet without worrying about how good the gaskets. And when the crown action is this good, unscrewing to wind is not that much of a chore or risk of cross thread. Also, I am sure Serica realise most microbrand watches are bought by enthusiasts (nerds) who change what they wear regularly so end up having to unscrew and wind their autos a lot anyway. Given the option though, this is one thing I’d change.

So that’s it, the Serica 4512 Commando retails for €690. Oozes quality and style. Looks good on anyone, anywhere. Get one.