Welcome to the horology world’s ultimate watchmaking podcast network. On this episode of Rob & the Regulator, Artisian Watch Technician Alex and Ex Richard Mille employee Rob talk about the latest releases from the watch industry. Including the Ulysses Nardin Freak S.
The fine quality alcohol consumed sensibly on this podcast is provided by Milton Rum Distillery. Make sure to support our podcast by supporting Alex and the gang over at Milton Rum. The more of their rum that you drink, the better our podcasts can be. Use the code robfest10 for 10% off your purchase.
Hautlence Linear Series 1 https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/08/hautlence-linear-series-1.html 43 x 50.8 x 11.9mm stainless steel case, 100m WR. The Moser base calibre is paired with a display module (originally developed for Romain Jerome) made by Agenhor that has a conventional minute display matched with a retrograde hours driven by a long, V-shaped arm in blued steel visible on the dial. Limited to 28 pieces, 59000CHF (100000 gumnuts)
Morqain Wild ONE
42×12.3mm “NORTEQ” (rubber with forged carbon shields) case, 200m WR.
Friend of the show JCBs contribution to Morqain. All that rubber might actually dampen shocks and sure is cheaper to make than suspension like Formex. Hope rubber won’t
decay with age.
The Formex that’s a millimeter larger or smaller, out of forged carbon but with ZrO
2 bezel and crown, has a dial and hands that are actually legible and comes with a microadjust clasp for half the price of the Morqain. No “manufacture” khaleesi movement though..
Pictured watch IS the watch you’re discussing, note how this exception is noted.
Limited edition has details made out of sand (probably bound by 60+% resin)
Sinn, Certina and Formex have all tried shock absorbing containers but all stopped. (information provided by Claus @tapir_ffm, great Fifth Wrist and #watchdesandboobswednsday contributor)
US$5,290 / 9000 gumnuts – blue, khaki US$5,690 / 9600 gumnuts – burgundy US$5,590 / 9500 gumnuts – Hakuna Mipaka
Speake-Marin Openworked Tourbillon V2
38 or 42 x 12.35mm black DLC titanium or rose gold
Limited to 10 pieces in each version (size / material so 40 in total), price on request. Allegedly around 70000EUR (115000 gumnuts) according to a
shady looking website that’s claiming to be an official partner of Speake-Marin.
Habring² (x Massena Lab) Chrono Felix perpetual
38.5 x 13mm stainless steel case, 30m WR.
Numerals on the standard edition by @onehourwatch who’s also done numerals for Fears,
Kudoke x SJX and
Sarpaneva. Pretty well integrated correctors. Same Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module as in the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton and Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar. A11 movement was once a 7750 but has been modified to the point where few components are interchangable, including a new escapement with the hairspring made from wire inhouse. Massena labs claims to be inspired by a black and white picture of a Patek 1518, the first perpetual calendar chronograph. Note black polished moonphase disk on that one.
Hamza’s (Garry-Anne) @watchcharts comment in the slack:
It’s a manually wound QP with only 48 hours of power reserve. I don’t know, that’s a lot of commitment…
Standard version is unlimited, 18100USD (30000 gumnuts).
Massena lab edition limited to 10 per year 2023 and 2024 (already sold out), 24995USD (42000 gumnuts)
Vulcain Cricket
36mm or 39mm x 12.70mm stainless steel case, 50m WR.
https://youtu.be/NmFHltOfEQQ?t=16 Hammer sound. Crickets chirp, not buzz.. Movement features
Exactomatic, a patented device to equalise the friction on the balance-wheel axis in all positions by modifying the Incabloc endstones. Look at the movement shot. Significantly more expensive than just buying a vintage one.
50 “launch” pieces in each size with salmon dials, regular model unlimited pre-order 3600CHF in 36mm and 3900CHF in 39mm (6100 / 6700 gumnuts)
Sylvain Pinaud Origine
40x11mm stainless steel case, 30m WR.
Got to take into account that Rob’s had a good nice chat with the watchmaker.
65000CHF (111000 gumnuts)
All the other shit
Longines Master collection 190th anniversary
40×9.35mm Steel, yellow- or rose gold case, 30m WR.
Possibly the best machine engraving on any watch so far, or extremely crisp stamping. Deployant clasp on the steel but pin buckle on the gold versions.
Limited to 190 pieces of each gold kind, steel is unlimited. 12000USD (18000 gumnuts) in gold, 2400USD (3500 gumnuts) in steel.
Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton
43×16.96mm gold case, 30m WR.
Extremely plain back of the movement, could’ve used some côte du soleil like they’ve done before or stepped finish like Grönefeld do. Strange cutouts in the dial on the non-engraved versions.
3 unique pieces (despite more shown in the video?), price on request.
Panerai Luminor due luna
Mother of pearl, moonphase 30m WR gold case… military dive watch. Idiotic or cool juxtaposition?
38x??mm stainless steel or rose gold case, 30m WR
None are limited edition
9300USD / 16000 gumnuts steel (PAM1179, 1180)
20600USD / 35000 gumnuts rose gold (PAM1181)
10100USD / 17000 gumnuts steel, MoP Dial (PAM1301)
Arnold and Son Luna Magna meteorite
44×15.9mm platinum case, 30m WR.
70900CHF (120000 gumnuts)
If sufficiently buggered, you can reenact previous guest and friend of the shows Adam Cranoites 50th birthday party at this point:
Instagram recommendations: Alex: Bushido_0044 Rob: qikant_garage Ghost https://imdb.com/title/tt0099653/ Emily the thief https://imdb.com/title/tt15255876/
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Fifth Wrist and Fifth Wrist Radio are both community run projects. Designed to serve the watch enthusiast community. We reject all forms of outside watch brand intervention and take no money, watches or goods from watch companies. Our podcasts are focussed on watchmaking, horology and the wonderful people who keep these skills alive. The future direction of the website and podcasts are driven by the people who take part in this project.
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The Rob & The Regulator theme kindly provided by watch enthuisiast @donal.reid
The Fifth Wrist Podcast Crew record this watchmaking podcast audio using Blue Yeti microphones.
We hope you enjoy listening to this podcast episode about the H Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack and have as much fun as we had making it! Thanks to everyone in the Fifth Wrist community who give their time to make this project possible. The hosts, co-host, writers and editors, plus everyone who takes the time to share and promote this project daily.
Stay On Time & cheers from Rob @geneva_blue_ and Alex @thewatchregulator
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