Welcome to the horology world’s ultimate watchmaking podcast network. On this episode of Rob & the Regulator, Artisian Watch Technician Alex and Ex Richard Mille employee Rob talk about the latest releases from the watch industry. Including the Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067.
The fine quality alcohol consumed sensibly on this podcast is provided by Milton Rum Distillery. Make sure to support our podcast by supporting Alex and the gang over at Milton Rum. The more of their rum that you drink, the better our podcasts can be. Use the code robfest10 for 10% off your purchase.
Milton Rum Independents Corner
Masena Labs and Raul Pages Magraph
38.5 x 10mm 47.5mm lug to lug stainless steel case, 50m WR.
Unsigned crown, swiiiirly text on the movement, interestingly shaped large 3/4 plate, “sustainable sturgeon skin leather straps with rubber lining”. Mystery in the community what the movement is based off, can’t possibly be 100% new inhouse design and manufacture at that price?
Inspired by the Patek 96 “Margraf” sold for 238600CHF in 2008
Limited to 99 pieces, 8675USD (15000 gumnuts)
Parmigiani Flourier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm
https://monochrome-watches.
36 x 8.6mm stainless steel case, 100m WR.
Smaller size but due to not having a microrotor like the normal PF, it is 0.9mm thicker which means a less elegant case profile. The normal PF got Hermes leather straps recently, this smaller case might too down the road, would it be better or worse on a strap?
Larger Tonda PF Microrotor on Hermes strap
18500CHF silver sand (32000 gumnuts)
24900CHF warm grey with baguette indexes (43000 gumnuts)
Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067
50x23mm RLX (grade 5) titanium, 11000m WR.
Filling the ceramic bezel engravings with platinum makes it even more of a toolwatch. Same 3230 as other standard rolexes.
Commentary by noted Rolex evangelist, ex-Rolex employee, future gay lover of both hosts and repeatedly by-Alex-diagnosed autist Michael Woods:
I knew it was coming a while ago and knew it was going to be titanium but didn’t realise it was going to be available to purchase at 50mm. Thought it was going to be just produced for James Cameron then a smaller version come out for the public consumption.I think it’s far too big if you’re looking for a daily wearer. Great engineering though.
Not limited, 24800CHF (43000 gumnuts)
Gerald Charles Maestro 8 Squelette
39 x 41 x 8.5mm stainless steel case with white gold stone-set bezel, 100m WR.
Designed by Octavio Garcia, ex-artistic director of Audemars Piguet and founder of Gorilla Watches. Interesting how the movement follows the shape of the case dial-side but not on the back..
Limited to 10 per colorway, price on request (in excess of CHF 70,000 (120000+ gumnuts))
Théo Auffret Tourbillon Grand Sport
41 x 13mm (including domed sapphire crystal) titanium case, 30m WR.
GPHG 2022 finalist. Largely the same movement as his first watch, but now using the entire case for dial.
Made by a team of 3 watchmakers aged 23-27, the 27-year old 2018 Journe young talent winner being the main watchmaker, designer and namesake.
Limited to 4 pieces, 128000EUR (217000 gumnuts)
Ulysses Nardin x Norrøna Arctic Light
44 x ??mm 40 % Carbonium® 60% recycled fishing nets / recycled steel case, 300m WR.
Sustainable materials, movement container surrounded by plastic, colab with a clothing brand, big logo on dial but a bigger logo on caseback. 2022 buzzword bingo?
Limited and numbered to 29, 11900CHF for a package of watch and Ulysses Nardin branded Norrøna jacket, only available online (20500 gumnuts)
Ikepod Skypod limited edition
Italicized text is comments from email correspondence with the brand owner or from the press release.
46mm x 18.15mm titanium case (feels like 42-43mm on the wrist), 50m WR.
Dials designed by Swedish architect studio Claesson Koivisto Rune meant to resemble a starry sky. New case design to be easier to service without ruining the water resistance. Also features a screw on the back to keep the stem from breaking.
“The design challenge is to enhance readability and the overall graphic impression at the same time. It’s not a choice between a design concept or a scientific instrument. It’s both. In this way it is not much different from designing a house, juggling form and function. Except in architecture we’re typically working in 1:20 and for the watch we’ve had to work in 20:1. In this scale a micrometric shift makes all the difference.”
Mårten Claesson, Eero Koivisto and Ola, designers, 2022
New old stock La Joux-Perret 8103 24dt movement, serviced in 2022 by Roland Gloor / Projets Youhr.
2000 Megapod vs 2020 Skypod (Press release picture)
Only 180 movements available but no word on how many skypods will be made, 7900CHF (14000 gumnuts)
All the other shit
Ferdinand Berthoud FB3 (FB is owned by the Chopard group)
43.2 x 9.13 mm case white or pink gold case, 30m WR.
First COSC non-tourbillon cylindrical hairspring watch according to the brand.
Very complex case allegedly designed that way to be able to machine parts in ways to integrate as much as possible, as thinly as possible whilst keeping water resistance. Plus a side window to see that cylindrical hairspring. 12 weights on the hand-shaped balance. Would a regular profile projector work with a cylindrical hairspring?
30-part case* construction (screenshot from Watches TV)
Your thoughts on hand shape, AP 11.59-like minute track / rehaut (directly beneath the crystal), cylindrical hairspring, hairspring peep window, jeweled barrel and unusual crown will certainly be appreciated by all the wristeners.
Limited to 25 per year, 140000CHF (240000 gumnuts)
Bell & Ross BR-X5
41 x 12.8mm stainless steel case, 100m WR.
AP RO Offshore diver vibes about the dial / rehaut. Or maybe that’s just what happens when you make things very chunky? Bell & Ross’ first watch with a Khaleesi movement, MT5621, same as the Tudor North Flag had.
6900EUR on rubber, 7400EUR on bracelet (12000 / 12600 gumnuts)
Tissot Telemeter 1938
42 x 13.9 stainless steel case, 30m WR.
Valjoux A05.231 which is a “drastically improved” 68 hour power reserve, 28800vph, Nivachron hairspring 7750.
Not limited, 1850USD (3300 gumnuts)
Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet Damasteel
42 x 14.5mm Damasteel® (stainless steel damascus) case, 100m WR.
Inspired by the brand’s celebrity-chef brand ambassadors who include Anne-Sophie Pic and Yannick Alléno. Wanky website related to the launch event for this specific limited edition that probably cost more than R&D for the watch. Comes with a rubber strap with folding clasp and additional fabric strap with Velcro closure (thank you for normalizing literal childrens watch elements Richard Mille)
Yannick Alléno, Ricardo Guadalupe & Anne-Sophie Pic looking very comfortable and natural
One of few stainless steel damascus cased watches, GoS, Ondřej ‘papi’ Berkus (@hodinkyberkus) and Sinn having made them as well the past few years.. Sinn used Damasteel® as well and is the example of use in a watch on Damasteels website.
Limited to 200 pieces, 24100USD (42000 gumnuts)
Frederique Constant Classics Carée Automatic
30.40mm x 33.30mm x 9.71mm steel case, 30m WR.
Steel with blackened hands and indexes is fairly steel Patek looking.
Patek 5004A
1095CHF in steel, 1395CHF in gold plated steel (2000 / 2500 gumnuts)
Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”
43 x 31.4 x 7.3mm (large case size) case, 30m WR.
Is sportier the right direction for Cartier to go? Wasn’t the Santos Dumont a pilots watch intended for harsh use rather than some delicate elegant dress watch to begin with?
Limited to 150 pieces in platinum, 250 pieces in rose gold, steel model is regular production.
Steel 5300EUR (9100 gumnuts) Rose gold 12600EUR (22000 gumnuts) Platinum 16800EUR (29000 gumnuts)
Instagram recommendations
Rob: https://www.instagram.com/kirinwatchmaking/
Alex: https://www.instagram.com/analog_ovo/
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