When the first renders of the Ratio Freediver X appeared at the beginning of the year, I have to say I was intrigued. I loved the case shape and the overall design, but I was afraid it was gonna be too big – as some of the past divers from Ratio were. But I was surprised and delighted when, shortly after their initial announcement, they released the specs: 40mm diameter with a 20mm lug width – I was immediately sold.

I’m always pleased to see when a microbrand keeps improving in quality (and originality) as they grow over the years. Designing an original watch is a no small feat – designing an original dive watch, even less so. And yet, Ratio have seemingly done it with the Ratio Freediver X. Sure, there are design cues reminiscent of iconic watches from the past: the general case shape resembles a beefed up Seamaster 300 from the ‘60s with more pronounced lugs, while the asymmetrical aspect of the case harkens back to the Benrus type 1. The hour hand is sword-shaped (as on many mil-spec divers), the minute hand is arrow-shaped (but with a twist, evoking the snake hand of the Precista Royal Navy Diver), whereas the minute hand is pretty uniquely designed – with an arrow counterbalance. All of these different elements come together in a very coherent and aesthetically pleasing design, which doesn’t look like a derivative or a homage of any of the aforementioned watches.

The entire case is satin brushed, which makes it pleasant to the touch and better at handling scratches and dings. The bezel (with a ceramic insert) has a buzzsaw edge, which provides an excellent grip. The clicks are precise, with no back play whatsoever. The crown is sized at a respectable 7mm and it’s signed with the brand logo. And while we’re on the subject of sizes, it might be a good time to mention that my measurements of the case slightly differ from the official ones. Namely, while the bezel is indeed 40mm, the case itself is actually closer to 42 (due to those asymmetrical crown guards). However, with a very compact lug-to-lug of only 45mm, I can confirm that it wears more like a 40 on the wrist.

The dial has a unique shade of blue, which changes considerably depending on the light. There are double markers at 12, 6 and 9 and a date at 3 o’clock. Some purists may say that the use of the same marker at 12 o’clock on other locations may hinder nighttime legibility; however, the lack of a marker at the 3 o’clock date is enough to get your bearings in the dark. The lume is of an unspecified Japanese variety, with a green hue. The lume is good – Seiko good – but even though Seiko was once the standard for excellent lume, those days are long gone, having in mind that some microbrands now offer radioactive quality of brightness. That being said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the lume brightness and application on the Ratio Freediver X.

As you might’ve noticed, so far, this has been a mostly positive and favorable review. And as you might’ve noticed, there’s a measurement I haven’t mentioned thus far – the thickness. This watch is thick – 15mm thick. And while a mil or two can be forgiven due to the slightly domed sapphire crystal and the fact that the NH35 is a thicker movement, it’ll still be too thick for some. When worn on the excellent rubber strap supplied with the watch, it’s a non-issue, but if you pair it with a double pass strap, the height can become too much and the watch can bobble on your wrist. However, I’ve found that a single pass elastic strap makes an excellent pair with the Freediver X.

This is the third watch I’ve owned from the brand and it’s their best one yet. If you’re on the hunt for a no-frills diver (as we watch enthusiasts usually are), give this one a look – Ratio still continue to deliver an excellent value-to-specs ratio, but now with a design more unique and appealing than ever.