The practical complication of Patek Philippe, the Annual Calendar Ref. 5035 confuses most of the people I know. Firstly people do not know that Patek introduced the annual calendar complication with this watch at the 1996 Baselworld fair as a part of the practical complications collection. The annual calendar complication is invented by Patek Philippe. Secondly most people mistake this watch with a perpetual calendar, but the annual calendar is below the classic high-end complication and it is immensely practical – and, more affordable. Thirdly people feel that this watch is too small and feminine.

I see the 5035 as a typical watch of the 1990s. The case-size and case design looks a bit old-fashioned and feels strangely quirky. The case diameter is only 37 mm – rather small. The ceramic-white dial has applied luminous Roman numerals with a Roman IV, the long line VIII, it is relatively packed with sub-dials, it is asymmetrical in terms of the numerals (VII, VIII, XI), only the VI is missing (the date window is located at the 6´position) and the bezel has a concave shape, which is not seen very often. The case is available in yellow gold, white gold or platinum – one can admire the Geneva seal movement through a sapphire caseback. This annual calendar execution was offered by Patek in 1996 and its production ended in late 2004.

It feels like wearing a small and elegant perpetual calendar.

An annual calendar is a very new, useful and practical invention. The movement is less complex as the perpetual calendar, it automatically knows each month with 30 or 31 days, and it only needs one correction a year by the user – the end of February before March, that´s all. Throughout the year it feels like wearing a perpetual calendar. Cool. Today annual calendars are no longer rare because so many other brands offer this type of complication such as A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, F.P. Journe, Blancpain, Omega, Longines, among others. The Patek 5035 is perfectly legible with the three subsidiary dials for day, month and a 24-hour indication. It also offers a date window and a “sporty” sweep (centre) seconds hand. Later executions of the annual calendar offer a moon phase instead of the 24-hour subdial.

For me the strongest argument in favour of the watch is the harmonious case which feels smooth and easy to wear. The indications of the calendar can be easily adjusted from the outside with the help of three small pushers – i.e. with a toothpick. The minutes are easy to read on a railway minute track. Patek uses leaf-shaped hands for the Reference 5035. The well proportioned winding crown of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5035 is beautifully engraved with the Calatrava cross. On the vast majority of watches, the winding crowns are too large or not well-proportioned. That is not the case here. I like this detail very much. The watch runs perfectly accurately, it is easy to operate (the calendar), once on the wrist you can forget about all adjustments.

Yes or No to the Reference 5035?
From my point of view, you can check quite fast and easy, if the 5035 is the right watch for you. The more of the following criteria apply, the easier it is to decide on this Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5035 watch:
1) You are searching for great value for money from a watch of the Holy Trinity.
2) You are fascinated by movements with Geneva seal.
3) You like small(er) case diameters.
4) A perpetual calendar is out of reach or too complicated for you.
5) You admire watches that look a bit old-fashioned.
6) You like (many) Roman numerals on a dial.
7) You do not have design problems with date windows.
8) You are a friend of elegant watches with leather straps.
9) You like to see calendar sub-dials on a wristwatch.
10) You can live without a chronograph.

Pros

– First annual calendar wristwatch, legendary reference and useful complication with the Poincon de Geneve

– Perfect wearability and style – one of the best watchcases ever made

– Widely unknown and unspectacular – but the best watch I know

Cons

– Does not look good on pictures

– The lug width is 19 mm – many people are annoyed by these in-between sizes and a small(er) case-size

– Often mistaken as a perpetual calendar

Quality
100

Style
100

Value
90

Wearability
100