Everyone has a couple of brands that they really identify with—makers whose watches just speak to them—and Holthinrichs is one of those brands for me. Ever since I first came across their pieces on Instagram in early 2020, during the dark depths of COVID-era doom scrolling, I’ve lusted over just about everything Michiel Holthinrichs and his team have created.

My first watch from the brand was an earlier release: the Raw Ornament, a Brutalist-inspired, 3D-printed dress watch powered by a lovely Peseux 7001, complete with hand-finished anglage, snailing, and inward angles.

Since then, the brand has continued to walk the line between traditional and avant-garde. Models like the Liminality and Deconstructed series showed that Michiel wasn’t afraid to rethink the codes of classical watchmaking. Eventually, the Ornament 1 and Raw Ornament were discontinued, and in their place came two new lines: the Ornament Nouveau under the Haute Horlogerie umbrella, and the entry level Signature line—with the Deconstructed range sitting in between those two. The Signature line includes the more affordable CNC-milled models, and the more experimental LAB Series, which maintain the brand’s signature 3D printed cases with even more sculptural and skeletonised lugs.

After a 10-month wait, #26/30 of the LAB Series 1 finally arrived.

With watches below a certain price point, brands tend to have to compromise somewhere, and as a result, you might often hear that it is the dial or the case or the hands that are the main draw. But with the LAB 1, almost every element pulls you in. The titanium case has flowing, hollowed-out lugs that seem to emerge impossibly from the caseback—ethereal, almost organic, like the roots of a tree or something drawn from nature and reimagined in metal. They call to mind vintage bombe or flame lugs but taken several steps further. It took me a few days to really wrap my head around how they sit on the wrist—they almost seem detached from the case when viewed at the right angle.

The concave bezel combines linear and circular brushing with a polished edge where the midcase begins, and as is typical of the brand, parts of the case are left raw to showcase the unique textures left behind by the 3D printing process.

The dial is a patinated brass sunburst, carved by hand, and finished using a proprietary oxidisation method that encourages the copper in the brass alloy to react, producing stunning blue-green tones. These are then sealed under varnish, producing a rich, living dial. The domed sapphire crystal distorts the dial edges ever so slightly, and with the domed dial, the raised 3D-printed hour markers (which are part of the case rather than applied), and the radial brushing, the visual effect is multidimensional and constantly shifting.

 

During production, Michiel and Damiaen allowed buyers to customise their pieces with or without lume on the hands and markers. I opted for no lume to keep the dressier vibe, but I imagine the lumed versions look just as impressive.

The only potential compromise is the use of the Sellita SW300 movement—a pragmatic choice to reduce reliance on the more time-consuming Peseux finishing. But even here, Holthinrichs adds value: the carved and heat-treated rotor is made in-house, tying the movement in visually and thematically with the rest of the watch.

The strap is another talking point—made of rooster leather, something I hadn’t experienced before. The texture and grain are unique, and the warm brown tone pairs perfectly with the dial. I usually enjoy trying different strap combinations, but with this watch, nothing else feels quite right yet. One note: the use of curved spring bars means the strap hugs the case beautifully, but it also limits compatibility with aftermarket straps with straight ends (of which I have many and was hoping to pair some of them with this watch).

Despite being a modest 38mm diameter size on paper, the case and lugs give the LAB 1 real presence. Like the Raw Ornament, it wears more like a 40mm watch due to its architectural lugs. On my rounded 16.5cm wrist, the lugs curve elegantly and sit comfortably, though I wonder whether those with flatter wrists may find the fit different. It’s probably not a “universal fit” kind of design—but then again, Holthinrichs isn’t a universal brand.

And that’s really the point.

This is a watch for people who want something else. Something that doesn’t just sit on the wrist, but starts a conversation. It’s a piece that carries the unmistakable fingerprint of its maker—thoughtful, artistic, and slightly offbeat in the best possible way. The LAB 1 is not just a beautiful object; it’s a clear statement of intent from a brand that continues to push boundaries, while remaining deeply rooted in craft and story.

And for those of us who’ve been following Holthinrichs since the beginning, that story just keeps getting better.

Keep scrolling down for a few more comparison shots of the Raw Ornament and the Signature LAB 1. 

Pros
– Unique and attractive dial design and finish, with an eye catching colour.
– Daring case design.
– Has presence on the wrist.

Cons
– Uses only curved end straps – I wish it had extra drilled holes to accomodate both curved and straight spring bars.
– The long wait for the watch can be a bit painful, and lead to you buying extra watches during the waiting period!
– Unconventional design might not be for everyone (this could also be a pro!).

Quality

95

Style

95

Value

95

Wearability

90