The year is 2000. 

The millennium bug has not plunged us into chaos, and Japanese designer Issey Miyake launches the modern and “mathematical” «Bao Bao bag», which can be seen on the arm of Zaha Hadid, among others. Shortly afterwards, a much more significant (design) classic appears in the form of the iPod – which will change the world years later in a modified form …

In the year 2000 (or 1999, depending on the source), almost a quarter of a century ago, a watch also appeared for which the word “revolutionary” can be dredged up a little.
While there is hardly anything in watchmaking that has not existed before in a similar form, it can be safely said that the consistent use of ceramic as a material for the case and bracelet on the one hand and the positioning as a ladies’ and unisex watch on the other was courageous and a bit groundbreaking (the Hermès Cut, which appeared in the year 2024, does the same).
The J12 is sometimes referred to as the first watch icon of the 21st century.
Just how stylish the first incarnation of the J12 was can be seen from how little it has changed to this day. 

I have been fascinated by this watch for a long time, and watches often disappear from my imaginary wish list after a while, but not this one. I kept thinking about it, but never had one on my wrist.
Until I met a Fifth Wrist colleague (from Seattle, Geneva brings people together) at Watches and Wonders who was wearing a J12.
Hamza has the grey model in 41mm, which fit me “like a glove”.
What to do? The new models have the great Kenissi movement, white would be more consistent, black would suit the architect in my household best … so I put in a broad search order at C24.
And then: a fair offer here in Frankfurt – in black and 39mm … and it was mine 🙂

The basic design of the J12 is a classic diver’s watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel (some of the later versions, such as the «Paradoxe», do not have a rotating bezel). The fact that it has a ceramic bezel probably doesn’t need to be mentioned here.
In addition to the case and strap material, the J12 is characterised by a very deliberately designed dial. Two levels, separated by a polished ring and twelve white numerals in … ceramic. In my opinion, the date between 4 and 5 is positioned exactly right on the 39 mm version; on the 41 mm version, it moves slightly inwards and touches the inner minute ring.
One – patented – speciality is the butterfly folding clasp. It is not held in place by pushers or bars, but by (leaf) springs that allow the clasp to fold shut. Closing and, above all, opening it is a dream.

So, to finish with a bird’s eye view …
“Chanel, are you nuts? A fashion brand!”

Well, Chanel has a 20% stake in Kenissi and F. P. Journe and probably more in Bell & Ross – and recently they bought a stake in MB&F.
So Chanel has not only created a classic with the J12, but also has a considerable footprint in the watch industry.
Now I just have to solve the problem that this watch has brought with it:
My wife thinks it’s so great that she wants it. That’s how I felt with my Nomos Club; intended as a watch for both of us, I never wore it again 🙂

Pros:
– Iconic Design

– Very comfortable

– good availability and price on the secondary market

Cons:

– Not as lightweight as you might think

– The links of the bracelet are pinned (but with a fairly easy-to-use system of two-piece pins) and there are no half links

– Boring movement (the vintage version)

Quality
90

Style
100

Value
85

Wearability
90