I’m generally drawn to watches that are unique and tell a story. For these reasons, I collect mostly vintage watches. I do have a few modern pieces but even those carry forward vintage cues. I picked up my Weekly Auto Orient King Diver in August to mark five years with my company. Orient recently turned 70 and, as a way to mark their birthday, began rolling out a line of reissues they’re calling their “Revival” line.
This watch, a tribute to one made between 1965 and 1969, is the first in that line. The new Orient King Diver is very faithful to the original – down to the stainless steel bracelet (which I’ll come back to later). It’s a big watch at almost 44mm but that’s only 1mm larger in case diameter than its forebear – I assume to accommodate the new movement which beats at 21,600 bph, hacks and handwinds. They’ve also upped the water resistance to 200m. The original model, if you can find an unmolested example worth buying, ran at a slower 18,000bph, did not hack or handwind and gave you the then-standard water resistance of 70m.
The Orient King Diver oozes cool. I love the broad arrow hour hand, the compressor-style twin crown look, the way they’ve balanced the dial with the day and date in different apertures and the subtle sunburst of the black dial. I’m less crazy about the lume, which is underwhelming for a dive watch, and the ropey feel you get adjusting the internal bezel with the crown at 2 o’clock. I’ve got to hand it to Orient here too, even in the negative, as they’ve managed to replicate the exact feel of the original. I once owned a World Diver (one of many watches that replaced the first King Diver in 1970) and it behaved the exact same way. Some have bemoaned the domed mineral glass but I like it – it’s serviceable and fits the aesthetic.
The case is well-finished in a combination of high polish and fine brushing and the 20mm lug width means you can slap any number of straps on this one and it’ll look great. I’ve left mine on the bracelet. Manufactures seem to think weight equates to security so they’ve supplied great watches with these solid bracelets built like tanks and just as heavy. It ruins the feel and experience of wearing the watch. My modern Omega Speedmaster is a great example. As soon as I took it off the stock bracelet, my enjoyment of the watch increased fifty-fold. It has to do with balance. That’s why vintage bracelets, while flimsy and jangly, are so comfortable to wear. Orient did a great job with this bracelet. It has solid links and end links but it feels (and rattles) like a vintage bracelet – light, comfortable and balanced with the watch. Still, it isn’t perfect. The pressed clasp is small and has only one notch of micro-adjust and it stands proud of the bracelet so it’s easy to catch on clothes. And, if you’re like me and don’t care for Orient’s heraldic logo, you’ll roll your eyes at the fact that they’ve managed to sneak it onto the clasp itself.
If you’re going to take the watch off, admiring the cool caseback is as good a reason as any. It features a laser etching of a diver brandishing a spear gun as they skim the sea floor. The original had the same design – only stamped. So again, another nice nod to the original. I sort of accidentally fell into collecting dive watches and have quietly amassed a nice little collection that includes a pair of Caravelle Seahunters, a Zodiac Seawolf, a Tradition Deep Diver and a few others I’m eagerly awaiting to return from the watchmaker. This King Diver is my only modern diver and that says something. All in all, it’s a great watch with a cool history and it has me interested to see what else they’ll roll out.
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