In the early 1930’s, two Portuguese merchants commissioned from IWC a large wristwatch with pocket watch precision. Using an existing pocket watch movement, the brand released a time-only watch in 1939. The Portuguese line was reborn in the 1990’s with the Rattrapante split-second chronograph released in 1995 and standard chronograph in 1998. Updated to model 3716 and renamed “Portugieser” in 2018 for the brand’s 150th anniversary, this was a significant update to the IWC Portugieser Chronograph.

Leaving nearly all its beloved external features unchanged the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph did come with a must-have feature found in modern high-end watches, an in-house movement. Designed and produced by the Richemont-owned ValFleurier movement manufacturer, the movement beats at 4 Hz, features a column wheel design and 46-hour power reserve. The new movement allows for another great enhancement, a sapphire case back.

With a case size that bordered on large for 1998, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 41 mm diameter is now considered fairly moderate. The 13 mm height similarly so. These dimensions, along with a nearly bezel-less dial, give the watch a real presence, but nothing overpowering. The dial layout is classic, with a centrally mounted chronograph seconds counter, 12:00 minutes counter, and running seconds at 6:00. Applied hour markers give the dial depth and a contemporary flair.

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph is popular. There are at least 10 different variations available including white, blue, red, green, black, and (new for 2022) panda dials, stainless steel and rose gold cases, leather and rubber straps, and even a stainless steel bracelet! I challenge anyone to browse the IWC catalogue and not find a color that suits them. Mine is the beautiful, blue-dialed version (IW371606), and I know owners of the black (371609) and a perennial favorite, the white-dial and blue indices versions (371605).

The moderate case size and stylish color choices make the IWC Portugieser Chronograph, in my opinion, the perfect casual watch. It’s a watch that wears equally well out for a nice dinner, a Saturday cruise aboard a boat, or a cool winter evening by a warm fireplace. The included black crocodile strap provides a dressier look, while the IWC “Summer Strap” sailcloth collection from 2019 is perfect for more casual wear. The 20 mm lug width supports a plethora of other 3rd party strap options. The watch fits under all but the smallest shirt cuffs, and I’ve seen this watch on a few fashion-forward ladies’ wrists as well.

There are a few minor nit-picks that I have with the new Portugieser. First, the lack of lume renders the watch useless in low light situations, especially on darker-dialed versions. Second, the latest version comes on a double-deployant or “butterfly” clasp, which I find less convenient compared to single-deployant clasps of previous versions. The reason behind the clasp change was to support a wider range of straps, including IWC’s cellulose-based TimberTex straps. Other than that, the execution is flawless.

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph is an entry point into one of their finest collections. The 7-day Automatic version is similarly beautiful, with a huge movement visible behind its sapphire case back. And the line moves up from there to annual calendars, perpetual calendars tourbillons, minute repeaters, and grand complications. In fact, one could make a stellar 3-watch collection from within the Portugieser line all by itself!

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 is the modern interpretation of a classic timepiece. Born out of necessity in the 1930’s, IWC has crafted an imminently wearable, versatile, beautiful watch that should live to see its own 100th birthday in the not-too-distant future.