In 1939, two Portuguese businessmen requested IWC to make a wristwatch that is as accurate as a marine chronometer. Being the practical watchmakers they were, the IWC Watchmakers simply modified their pocket watch movement, built a 41.5mm case attached to a leather strap, and called it a day. But what they created was the birth of an icon and one of the most popular dress watches of the modern era, the IWC Portuguese. Then in 1998, the birth of another icon,carrying the same name with a different complication was unveiled and it remained aesthetically unchanged for the last 23 years and still counting. I know what you’re thinking, it’s boring or even lazy of IWC to keep the Portuguese Chronograph update-less for all its life so far, but think of this, why change a winning recipe for success in creating a modern-day icon right?
In 1998, 5 years after IWC decided to bring back the Portuguese line, they released the IWC Portuguese Chronograph, a large 42mm beast that carried a Valjoux powered movement and a striking large white chronograph with applied hour markers. It’s a beast of a watch considering it had no bezel and was 42mm in diameter. It was huge for the time and basically the watch was 10% bezel and 90% dial. At the time, I imagine this shocked the watch world, seeing a sporty-ish dress watch with a huge case and dial. It was different and people really were captivated by it….a lot.
Think of another watch that has remained the same for more than 20 years. If you’re curious about how the original Portuguese chronograph looks, go to your local AD, it’s sitting right there on the shelves and is readily available for purchase. It became a choice of many many watch enthusiasts as a purchase that was not a Rolex, maybe Anti-Rolex if you will. IWC did such a good job on the watch that people didn’t mind that they didn’t change it for the last 20+ years.
It’s only a few years back when they introduced an in-house movement, added different colors, and a bracelet but everything else remained the same as 23 years ago. So what’s their secret recipe? Simplicity!
IWC has created the Portuguese to cater to both older and younger customers. It gave them a sporty and active vibe with the large size and a chronograph while keeping that dress watch aesthetic within the watch. With the 42mm case and large dial, it instantly made people appreciate the work and beauty of the Portuguese Chrono, and it became instantly recognizable to watch collectors and enthusiasts alike. The silky rounded corners of the applied numerals, the insanely crisp print on the dial, and the cool little details when light hits the dial. It simply made boring or simplicity beautiful, making you appreciate that sometimes beauty does come in the simple things in life. The smooth lines of the case and the appalling detail of the dial are like no other watch and this appealed to customers instantly.
After the IWC Portuguese Chrono was released, they expanded the line even further adding various complications such as the famous 3712 Rattrapante, Perpetual Calendar, Minute Repeater, and more. But despite these wonderful complications the chronograph always remained as the most popular one in the line. Mention the Portuguese to a watch enthusiast or a collector most likely the first thing that comes to mind is the chronograph.
The IWC Portuguese became a modern icon and an awesome option for those who don’t want to spend big bucks on a cool all-around dress watch. With the recent update featuring the new in-house Calibre 69355 the 3716 now also comes with a see-through case back and a bracelet in an array of colours which gives customers more variety when it comes to choosing their Portuguese.
In the world of Hyped Watches, the Portuguese may give people a refreshing and a new perspective, one that allows them to appreciate simplicity.
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