Oh what’s this, a vintage inspired dive watch. There is no shortage of these around but this EMG/HKED Nemo Diver is done rather well and offers some great value. Initially, I disregarded it due to its 13.5mm thickness featuring quite a bulging case back. I felt it wouldn’t quite give that sporty but elegant feel that I was looking for, however its great looks kept drawing me back.

It also does what I really appreciate from a small brand; interesting design and good specification at a great price. It offers a similar spec to the Baltic Aquascaphe but at $450, 40% cheaper. I’d missed the Kickstarter preorder at an even better price but for box domed sapphire, 9 series Miyota, ceramic bezel, applied indices and a solid link beads of rice bracelet the full asking price seemed fair. At this money the movement wasn’t putting me off so much. The reviews were good so I thought I’d give it a go. And I wasn’t disappointed.

The design of the EMG/HKED Nemo Diver feels like it is just aiming for a fun and casual vibe. There are 6 colour choices with yellow and powder blue being the most vibrant. Even the darker blue that I have isn’t boring; it has a very matt finish that really absorbs light to deepen the colour in the sun. The appliqué indices are nicely done and catch the light and there is a nice touch of detail on the hands with a split down the middle that avoids them looking plain.

It is the use of colour that gives this watch its character. Pops of red on the second hand, text and minute track set into a white chapter ring providing contrast to the blue. I particularly like the light chapter ring, against the blue dial; it makes the watch look more compact than its dimensions and breaks up what is a simple dial layout. The ceramic bezel is nicely done with a matt finish that ties in with the matt paint. It’s quite stiff to turn but feels very secure and clicks nicely.

The movement seems well executed. It keeps time within spec and the crown screws in smoothly. Although there is a fair bit of polish on the case (side scratches are a hazard) and the bracelet, the colouring makes this a very casual diver and one that will probably appeal for weekend wear.

The case looks great when viewed on the wrist. There are short brushed lugs that aid the compact look. From the side the polished mid case is relatively thin. It seems clear that there is an attempt with this to make the watch look thinner, like the vintage skin divers it is inspired by. It works at certain angles but more often you see the bulging case back which for me is the only real downside. It is a shame as the Miyota 9 is thin and it could easily have been made with a shallow case back.

The EMG/HKED Nemo case is the same one that was used previously on the HKED Emperor. That watch had the thicker NH35 inside. They could have reduced the size for the Nemo but that would of course have added some cost and offering a real value proposition was presumably the way they wanted to go. I guess at this price point there are compromises to make and these I can live with. They are sold out now but if they do another run or you get a chance to buy used I’d wholeheartedly recommend them.