As a micro-brand guy, I have bought and sold hundreds of watches over the last decade. So, I feel like I’m a pretty good judge of watches in the $500-$1500 range. Coming in that range ($1050 USD) recently is the Dietrich SD-1 Skin Diver.
Historically while their watches have been very cool, they have been a bit too “out there” for my tastes. Not so with the SD-1; it hits all the sweet spots while still remaining unique in a crowded market.
A riff on the skin diver design, it’s been able to maintain strong brand DNA and appeal to the mainstream, while also setting itself apart just enough.
I think it’s all the little things that tie it together to make the Dietrich SD-1 Skin Diver a really well-thought-out and cohesive watch. The sapphire bezel surrounded by squared-off edges, the custom hands, the marker shapes, the bracelet all contribute to maintaining specific brand imagery. And the beautifully integrated date window is one of the best I’ve ever seen. That little fish on the crown is also right up my alley!
I won’t go into the specs here as they’re all available on the website. Suffice it to say the specs are on-trend these days and nothing has been skimped on. For most people, I think the size will be just right, and it’s very comfortable to wear. The screw-down crown is big enough to operate well and small enough not to dig into the wrist.
I chose the “Suave Black” version of the Dietrich SD-1 Skin Diver to play it safe, but the more popular blue version looks amazing too. There was also a green version that came a bit later. The Fume dial is a nice detail that adds some style and I do really like it. I feel however that it doesn’t fade well from the center to the outside edge – it’s more like a burst of lighter color in the center of the dial.
Another interesting detail is the squared-off “faux” end-link situation. I haven’t had any experience with this design before but I think it works well here. It makes straps be they leather or steel feel more integrated into the watch. It means you can use a straight-end bracelet and it looks like it was meant to be on the watch. It is slightly restrictive to really thick straps, and possibly leather NATO’s but otherwise, it’s a great feature. I have found this watch to be a “strap monster” as they say. It looks good on leather, canvas, mesh – almost everything I’ve tried.
As for the included steel bracelet; it’s quite nice, and it was easier than expected to adjust. That being said, there’s no micro-adjust so it’s just luck if you can size it to your satisfaction. It’s also a quick-release which is very convenient. The lugs are drilled too, so strap changes really are a breeze.
One thing that was a little disappointing about the Dietrich SD-1 Skin Diver was that the markers on the top sapphire dial don’t really hover far above the lower dial; it’s difficult to see that they are floating. They look good in the marketing pictures, but it’s not as perceptible in person.
The case back is completely blank, with just a few details actually printed onto the underside of the lugs. I guess this leaves a space for your own engraving, however, I’m nerdy and like the cool details printed on case backs, nice art, or even visibility to the movement. Not a deal-breaker for me though.
All in all, I’m very glad I jumped on the Dietrich SD-1 Skin Diver before it sold out. I ended up selling my Baltic Aquascaphe GMT in order to get the SD-1. The Baltic is probably the closest thing to the SD-1 out there, and I have to say I will probably pick up another one eventually (non-GMT) but the two watches are pretty on-par quality and design-wise. I’m interested to see the SD-2 now in the works from Dietrich, but I hope I don’t want that version more!
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