Think of the first dive watch designed expressly for use by the military. A design so forward in thought, that even today, much of the criteria that officially defines the dive watch (ISO 6425 for those playing the home game), could be found on this very early timepiece. Have you guessed the model yet? Nope, you’re wrong, it is not the Rolex Submariner, it was the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. With its release in 2013 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe and its military roots gave it the best pedigree possible for a luxury tool watch.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is the smaller, more wearable brother of the Fifty Fathoms, albeit, no less functional. The 43mm stainless steel case is 300m water resistant, incredibly wearable, and its brushed finish enforces the utilitarian nature of the Bathyscaphe. On the NATO strap, the watch looks every bit the military tool it was inspired by, whilst the hardware and the weave of the strap gives it the fit and finish of a modern mechanical watch. Equipped with the Calibre 1315, it features a date function, displayed at 4:30, and boasts a 5 day power reserve – perfect for those who like to swap watches during the week. It is also fitted with a silicon balance spring, protecting against the modern-day, ever-present nuisance of magnetism. It is also immaculately finished, with its bright chamfers, 18 karat gold rotor and clean surface finishing.

Its vintage inspired outward aesthetic, and its technically superb movement led me to be a big fan at the time of its release. The only thing I could reasonably complain about would be the ever so odd 23mm lug width. This prevents it from being dressed up or down with a wider variety of aftermarket straps.