Helm watches have built a cult following in the microbrand community and for a good reason – they offer original designs and unparalleled quality for the price. And as demand kept increasing over the years, they’ve managed to keep their prices relatively unchanged. What’s the catch? – you might ask, because undoubtedly there has to be one. And the answer is – in order to get something like the Helm Vanuatu Titanium, you have to subscribe to a waitlist.

But unlike the dreaded waitlists of some major brands, where you have to suck up to ADs and buy a bunch of pieces you don’t really want in order to get “the call” for the watch you actually like to buy, Helm’s waitlist operates on a very fair and transparent “first-come-first-served” basis. You simply enter your email on a list for a watch you’re interested in – and that’s it. You can check your place on the list anytime and are by no means obligated to get the watch when your turn comes. The downside of this is that the waitlists are long, and I mean really long.

I’ve always liked the look of their Vanuatu diver, but the main thing that kept me away from it was the sheer weight of the thing – with a diameter of 43mm and a 22mm super engineer bracelet, the steel version is a whopping 235g! That’s why when they released a titanium version of the same watch (with much more reasonable 145g), I immediately added my name on the list. Or at least I thought it was immediately, since apparently there were quite a few people on the list before me. Fast forward one year and eight months later (I told you the lists were long) and I finally got the opportunity to buy the Vanuatu Ti.

But I’d say the wait was well worth it – Helm delivered on its reputation. The Vanuatu is completely made of grade 2 titanium – including the bezel, clasp and folding mechanism – a rare thing, even on much more expensive titanium watches. The case finish is simple – entirely brushed – with a nice, deep engraving on the caseback. And despite its considerable size of 43mm, sized for my 7in. wrist it weighs like a 40mm steel diver. The dial is very legible – utilitarian and clean. The date wheel is black and neatly positioned at 6 o’clock – there when you need it, blending in when you don’t. Even the dial text is subdued, giving way to the primary and most important function of the watch – telling the time.

The blocky hands are another tell that the Vanuatu is intended to be a diving instrument, not a fashion accessory. The ISO 6425 certification is another – unlike most watches, each Helm piece is pressure tested and has an individual test certificate, confirming the depth rating capability printed on the dial. Nighttime visibility is aided by the fact that the dial, hands and even the ceramic bezel insert are pumped full of lume.

The limited availability provides another positive (and negative) side. The fact that you can’t simply buy one on a whim means that all models, the Vanuatu included, hold their value exceptionally well, especially for a microbrand. The downside is that resellers are fully aware of this, so if you want one right now, you’ll most likely have to pay above retail.

There are, of course, some downsides (trade-offs is maybe the more accurate description), but I think they’re pretty well balanced. For instance, grade 2 titanium is softer and therefore more prone to scratches that stainless steel, but this is countered with an all-brushed finish. 43mm is perhaps too large for fair share of wrists, but the low weight makes it feel like a much smaller watch. The NH35 movement may be basic and unremarkable, but it keeps the cost down.

All in all, Helm have produced an excellent diver at the affordable end of the spectrum, well-worth the hype and wait, thus proving my theory that great watches can be found in all price ranges and not just from the major, well-known brands.

Pros

-Unique-looking tool-y dive watch

-Awesome build quality AND it’s titanium

-Best waitlist model in the industry

Cons

-Even though it’s light, it’s still on the larger side

-Titanium can feel tinny and cheap if you haven’t experienced it and don’t know what to expect

-Even though it’s the best waitlist, there’s still a waitlist

Quality
89

Style
70

Value
95

Wearability
55