Michiel describes the Holthinrichs Raw Ornament as “Horology Brut”, inspired by architecture (Béton Brut or Raw Concrete). The concept is basically to showcase the raw materials, typically concrete, in their untreated or unfinished state. In the Ornament 1, the case is fully polished to a high finish. With the Raw Ornament series, only parts of the case and lugs are polished, leaving the rest unpolished, creating a “rough” look. The unpolished areas do appear slightly rough, but in actuality are relatively smooth. Not polished, but not rough to the touch.
The Raw texture of the printed stainless steel is similar to that of concrete, giving the 38mm diameter, 9.8 mm thick watch an overall muted appearance. But it makes the polished, stepped edges of the lugs that much more dramatic. And believe me the lugs are dramatic, long and flowing, with a small gap running between the inside and the outside before reconnecting where the springbar is inserted into the case. The lugs are a work of art and are truly unique. Despite the beauty of the rest of the watch, the lugs remain my favorite feature.
The dial of the Holthinrichs Raw Ornament is made of white rhodium, its the perfect way to complement the case. A somewhat understated silver/gray from afar, it is extremely dynamic in the light. The dial is relatively clean with a pad-printed minute track, Holthinrichs logo, and a small Made in Delft just below the subseconds at the 6. The hands are handcrafted and filled with a beautiful light bluish colour which glows a bright beautiful aqua colour that doesn’t last particularly long. As a dressier watch, the lume is more than adequate for the timepiece – only disappointing because it is such a great color. The subseconds is recessed into the dial and the polished bevel on the recess is another light-catching element.
The crown of the Holthinrichs Raw Ornament is small and signed. My only complaint about the watch is that with my larger fingers, the crown can be slightly difficult to wind as the mainspring tightens. The acrylic crystal could be susceptible to scratches. That said, I think both the crown and the crystal are the correct choices and enhance the character of the watch. A sapphire crystal caseback provides a view of the beautifully decorated movement.
At under 10mm thick, even with the domed crystal, the watch wears close to the wrist. The crystal on the caseback is recessed so there is no hidden height. With a relatively small bevel, clean and expansive dial, long-ish lugs, and flat profile, the watch appears closer to a 39-40mm watch – and fits my 18cm wrist perfectly. And while it certainly portends a dressier aesthetic, the funky lugs, and the contrasting raw/polished look really comes across as cool, casual. It’s a wonderful day-to-day watch in nearly all non-sports/water settings. Even moreso since its an absolute strap/bracelet monster. It also looks fantastic on the mesh bracelet. I should note the Holthinrichs clasp (bracelet) and buckle (strap) are engraved.
The side-case, including lugs, is hollow. This allows for hidden drilled lugs. Also, they are able to print text in the side-case, hidden from view. It is clear Holthinrichs has really crafted a thoughtful timepiece taking full advantage of unique nature of 3D printing.
The cool retro style and under the radar look makes the Holthinrichs Raw Ornament one of my favorites. That’s only grown as I’ve experienced it in different situations and come to appreciate just how versatile it is. It disappears on the wrist due to its lightness and then grabs your attention with its eye-catching style and unique light-play. It feels at home under a cuff or out in the open with a effortless casualness.
And Michiel and Damiaen are absolutely wonderful to work with, especially if you are looking for something bespoke or custom.
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