I was a budding watch enthusiast with three watches: a Speedy, a no-date Sub, and a DJ36. I wanted to stir things up. After much debate, I pulled the trigger on a JLC Reverso Medium Thin. Less than 24 hours in, I began regretting my decision. I couldn’t understand why, as I had tried the watch on so many times, and studied it for so long. First, I was disappointed in the dial… the finishing wasn’t quite perfect, and as it was a two-hander, the lack of motion made the watch seem stale and lifeless. Nonetheless, after a bit of wheeling and dealing, I was able to return it. Albeit, now I was also scared I would make a wrong choice again. Something kept pulling me towards Grand Seiko, and I finally bought an SBGW231. But wait, I thought this review was about the Grand Seiko SBGM221 you might wonder… don’t worry, we’ll get to that in a moment.

At first, I was concerned with the color of the dial. I felt ivory or cream (call it what you will) was too plain. However, after a few days on the wrist, I found myself inexplicably drawn to this creamy color, the dauphine hands, and of course the perfect indices. The 231 was stunning in every way: size, color, finishing. I truly became mesmerized by what Grand Seiko can do… and for Tudor money!

So, many moons later, I found myself in a similar predicament, once again craving a Reverso. I called my local JLC and asked if they had a Reverso Medium Small Seconds (at 3mm larger than my previous one, I figured maybe a slightly bigger watch with a running seconds would resonate better with me). They told me that they had one piece, and it had just been discontinued. I rushed over to take a look. To my disappointment, I still felt the same disconnection with the watch. The finishing wasn’t all that great, in fact, it had a massive scratch on the polished bezel (of course this could have happened post-production). Things weren’t falling into place, so I walked away.

I began to wander around the mall. In addition to the newly nixed JLC, there were a few other watches on my wish list. I knew at some point I wanted to add a GMT to my collection, and as I already owned a sub, the GMT Master II was too similar, so Rolex was out. I remember thinking “who else is known for their GMTs”? Of course, the answer is Grand Seiko (you find them in Quartz, Spring Drive, Hi-Beat, and Automatic). If GS does any complication truly exceptionally, that would be the GMT. But which one? I walked into the GS dealer, and tried on a beautiful SBGJ249. I am always enamored by the Shosho’s dial, but I am not a huge fan of GS bracelets. I had also previously tried the SBGJ217, but felt that both this and the 249 were a bit steep in price at around $7500. Then I saw it- the O.G. (GS’s second ever GMT was the identical SBGM003 from 2004). The Grand Seiko SBGM221 has a similar dial color to my 231 (I am a creature of habit), and a beautifully heat-blued GMT hand. Of course, it doesn’t have a Hi-Beat movement, but who cares. I always felt that the ‘Hi-Beat’ text just clutters the dial. I asked how much, and was told $4350 USD after discount. My eyes lit up! A handmade, true GMT, from Grand Seiko, in a sub-40mm case, with cream dial, all for about HALF of what I was about to pay for a Reverso? I told him to box it up.

The Grand Seiko SBGM221 makes me smile every time I wear it. It’s one of those watches that just feels natural on the wrist (Goldilocks style- not too big, not too small). It’s a strap monster as well! I can’t help but think, that if it wasn’t for JLC, I wouldn’t have bought either of my Grand Seikos. Years ago, JLC was the under-the-radar brand for people who knew and loved watches. I feel JLC has lost this accolade. Grand Seiko has ousted JLC from this throne of “if you know, you know” watchmaking, with better finishing, more innovation, and lower prices. Grand Seiko, in my opinion, has become the new JLC.