Much like my day job is a happy collision of my favorite health system & favorite city, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 C.03 for Collective is the result of two things coming together nicely: a search for a water-resistant chronograph and discovering Collective Horology, a private (but growing) enthusiast group that began in Silicon Valley, California.
Collective grabbed my attention with their Moser collaboration – that gorgeous/sporty green dial Pioneer Rotating Bezel, aka ‘C.02 for Collective’. I dug in, looking to figure out exactly how does a lowly public servant get his grubby paws on one of these very limited, very appealing watches. Meanwhile I’d been looking for a swimmable companion to my Ralph Lauren Sporting Chronograph 39mm (NOT for sale) whose review is posted here on Fifth Wrist. What I found was the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 using IWC’s modified Valjoux automatic movement.
You can tell this is the column-wheel movement by the placement of the running seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, where a stock Valjoux 7750 has its running seconds at 9 o’clock. The backside view shows a combination of machine & hand movement finishing, the distinctive ‘chess rook’ column wheel, and a rotor designed in collaboration with Collective. Compared to the vertical clutch column wheel movement in my RL Chrono, I find that the IWC has more pusher resistance start the chrono, similar resistance to stop the chrono, and distinctly less resistance to reset the chrono. Not better, not worse, I’d say the IWC’s pusher feel is ‘different’. Like the German text on the day wheel sort of different.
I like the matte dark grey dial and light grey lume on the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 – a LOT. But after a few weeks of ownership, I found what really sets the watch off and sets it apart from other versions of the Pilot’s 41mm is the measured & deliberate use of polished surfaces on an primarily brushed case. The broad polished bevel around the bezel, the narrow bevel between case top and sides, the mirror-shine polish on the chrono pushers, the facets of the crown, and especially those HANDS. Holy crap I love looking at the hands of this watch. When you turn your wrist either a little or a lot, these polished accents dance in the light and remind you that as ‘grey’ as this piece is, it’s a luxury Swiss watch. Thank you, Asher & Gabe, your time spent working out these details with IWC resulted in a real keeper.
The timekeeping as you’d expect is spot on, averaging +5 seconds per day. My measurements show 41mm wide, 50.8mm lug-to-lug, thickness of 14.6mm and a weight of 106 grams on a strap. It’s thick, but very wearable. Here in the mountains of North Carolina we are in long sleeves about 7 months out of each year, and this model is fine with that. Shout out to IWC engineers for crafting a pin & buckle that just work, better than any others I’ve seen. No fiddling: this pin buckle almost straps the watch on for you and takes it off just a quick.
Gripes? I wish the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 seconds hand was a little more visible. At least once I hit Reset not knowing that the chrono was still running. No need to paint it blaze orange, but I’m supposed to find a ‘minus’ so there it is. You might think that having to apply for Collective membership was a negative but no, actually that experience was a pleasure. It’s nice to feel accepted and after two very deliberate ‘you’re not good enough’ experiences at the nearest big-city AD, I’d have to say that the people in this hobby are far more important than the brand on the dial.
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