The S.U.F. Helsinki 180 Kuura, must be the simplest watch that Stepan Sarpaneva produces. It is based on the field watches of old yet is a modern take on this very classic in its design. The size is modern but not too large at 38.7mm and a slim 8.9mm thick. Lug width is 20mm, so it’s an absolute strap monster. For me this watch is tremendous, but it is hard to define why when you first glance at it or hold it!

The S.U.F. Helsinki 180 completely flies under the radar and is very unassuming. So why pay such a premium for it compared to other modern field watches? You have to look at the details to understand why. When living with it daily, these little details come to the fore. For example, the dial isn’t a plain white, it’s a frosted silvery white, that really plays with light. Yet, it is super legible. The lume plots at the hour marker on the railway track ring, match the lollipop second hand. The date wheel is also white, so it matches and blends with the dial. Helping the date window disappear for those who hate it!

The case of the S.U.F. Helsinki 180 Kuura is brushed with polished edges and there is a lovely sharp polished bevel where the crystal is seated, and the sapphire crystal is super flat making the watch simple and elegant. The 180 on the dial is also the zip code of Stepan’s workshop, as well as a reference to stopping and looking back at how far he has come. For me it’s also a nod to simpler things and after this year, appreciating the simple things has a lot more resonance. All these little details for me add to the value.

I read another review that used the analogy of comparing the S.U.F. Helsinki 180 to other field watches like t-shirt being made by a designer vs a high street store. Even although they are both t-shirts, the top designer’s t-shirt just fits better. For me, this is exactly the feeling. It’s understated, classic looking and when you put it on your wrist it just feels right.