Since the first time I stumbled onto an image of this micro-brand, Unimatic captured my attention with their bold, clear design sensibility. Couple that with the limited edition runs that incrementally experiment with the details of the watch and it became a “must have” piece. The design is not unfamiliar. I might describe it as a Submariner redesigned and reimagined by the Bauhaus. Superfluous curves are replaced with efficient angles, ornament is consolidated into utility, and information is intuited.

While the dimensions of this watch all fall into the spec that typically works for my wrist, this watch wears large. The case clocks in at 40mm, bezel increases the overall diameter to 41.5mm, 13.6mm thick, and the lug-to-lug is 49mm. Like I said, not unreasonable dimensions. But it’s the articulation of each element that increases the wrist presence. The dial opening is BIG, particularly for a dive watch, especially when compared with vintage dive watches. It’s a 29mm dial. That’s great for the dial legibility and composition but it is a large presence on the wrist when combined with a bezel assembly. Likewise the bezel is another detail that adds to the presence of this watch. It is flat edge-to-edge. Without a curve or angle to ease down to the wrist, this is another element that presents itself front and center. The articulation of the lugs adds to the amount of real estate this takes up on your wrist. The lugs have been streamlined into a series of straight lines and angles when vintage dive watches (even some modern) ease into the wrist with curves. This results in lugs that seemingly project outwards from the watch. Finally, the 22mm lug width only adds to the perception of large projecting lugs, especially when worn on a bracelet. That’s a lot of metal without relief. I cannot help but spend so much verbage on the perceptible size of this watch as I continue to struggle with the right bracelet or strap to suit my wrist.

It arrived to me on a Unimatic NATO strap. Conceptually, this looks great and photographs exceptionally well. But the NATO leaves something to be desired. The quality is fair but not nearly up to par with some of the luxury, seatbelt variations out there. It’s also thick and two-layers – again, a design move that projects the watch outward from the wrist making it wear large. I opted to order their metal bracelet with end links specific to the U1-F model. Here, again, I found a good/bad relationship with it. It fits the watch well, decently constructed (although the clasp feels like an afterthought) at 22mm it’s heavy and adds a lot of metal to the watch. I’ve since ordered a Tropic strap and will likely get a thinner NATO, like a Phoenix. I’m working hard to find the strap that suits me because I simply love the watch head.

The graphic composition of the Unimatic dial, hands, and insert come together with absolute clarity. It’s all at once novel, striking, and classic. Obviously the design iterates on the Submariner but the attention to details like the horizontal marker at 6-o\’clock, straight hands with lume break, and original sweep hand, set it apart as Unimatic. Minimal and well-balanced dial text maintain the clean aesthetic. The insert comes across as an extension of the dial but meant to be touched. The bezel action is firm and assertive. In the end it’s a striking watch that brings me delight both on the wrist and on my desk. I should mention it’s even legible as a desk clock! I’ve struggled with the right strap but once I find it, I think it’ll be well worn. The case and bracelet could use some refinement and the movement is a workhorse but unexceptional. It’s not perfect but for the price it’s a great value.