In 2019, Bulgari released the Gerald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch, featuring a biretrograde, jump hour complication in an Arena case. For less than 10% of the cost of this new watch, a Gerald Genta Biretro G3734 can be yours. Although slightly smaller (36mm, versus 41mm for the 50th Anniversary watch) and made out of steel instead of precious metal, this watch packs roughly the same horological punch. You can also be confident that this was made when Gerald Genta was alive, rather than by a designer trying to approximate his vision.
This watch has three complications – a jump hour, a retrograde minute, and a retrograde date. They can be a bit finicky; on my watch, the minute hand jumps at about 55 minutes to -5 minutes, and then plays catch-up from there. I briefly owned a Retro that likewise had some timekeeping issues. Bulgari, which now owns the Gerald Genta brand, is willing to service it should the need arise. So, you can enjoy this independent watch without fear it will be unsupported.
The styling is pure Gerald Genta, from the man’s own brand. The design language harks a bit to the 1980s and 1990s, unlike some of his more famous models from the 1970s.
Setting the Gerald Genta Biretro G3734 is simple, as the retrograde date can be quickset. So, even if this is not your daily wearer, it is easy to pick up now and then when you want something different on your wrist.
All in all, this is one of the best value watches that I have ever seen. It tells time in a truly unique way and is affordably priced for what it offers the wearer. It’s not an everyday watch for me, but when I wear it, it always puts a huge smile on my face.
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